Ever regret buying a lure?
The majority of the lures on the market already have a built-in swimming action. But some lures have no action when just retrieved in straight.
When this happens, it is very frustrating because the price of the lure is not cheap.
You should know that some lures are created with a specific purpose.
For example, a fast sinking lure is very effective when working with the jerking technique, but its action seems ‘dead’ if we only give it a damn straight retrieve.
Therefore, we have to determine the suitable technique for each lure. Then here comes the time when the understanding of how lures work seems essential to us.
This article will describe some of the step-by-step methods you can use to make the lures become your ‘killing weapon.’
Interested? Let’s start.
The straight retrieve is the universal method used by anglers around the world.
This method is concise and a great start in any fishing session to detect active fish.
If the fish are active or in a feeding frenzy, they will attack the visible lures and looks like escaping prey.
This is where it is essential to know about the diet of our target fish.
Choosing lures similar to their diet, such as mullet, shrimp, and so on, is the key to success.
If you are dealing with situations that are suitable for this technique, you can catch fish easily.
I always apply this method to fish that like to ambush their prey.
One important thing you need to remember is the nature of the game for predators. Most predatory fish prefer easy work, like humans too.
This can be explained by the relationship between the use of energy and the energy that will be obtained.
If more energy is needed to obtain the food than the energy gained, the fish, especially large fish, will not take their prey seriously.
Predatory fish rarely attack small fish that have already detected their presence or small fish that maintain a certain distance from predators.
Hunting in natural habitats is not easy; the chances of losing their prey are high and waste a lot of energy.
According to Mr. Katsutaka Imae, test angler for Evergreen explains that:
What predators like to attack are three things; panic action, injury action, and the action of fish that does not notice the presence of predators.
The slow-rolling of the lure will mimic the third one, which is a negligent fish.
He is an easy target for them. Predatory fish definitely won’t let go of this opportunity.
What kind of lures is suitable?
Usually, lures like tailed frogs and minnow/crankbaits, which have a wide wobbling action (wide swimming action), are very killer in this way.
Soft plastic lures are also very effective with this method, especially for seabass and mangrove jacks.
Twitching & Jerking
Usually, jerk baits are used in this method.
Twitch and Jerk; Although these two methods look the same, there are slight differences between them. Let me outline the differences between these two techniques.
Twitch is a method where you make a cast and retrieve with the rod held horizontally, and you need to jerk the rod’s tip gently.
The goal is to give the lure a little bit of a flick, and the movement of the rod is by using the wrist.
It will give your hook an abnormal action, as if it were an injured prey fish, and trigger the fish’s instinct to grab the lure.
On the other hand, Jerk is a method where the movement is more violent and more vigorous. It will provide a more aggressive lure action.
The movement of the rod is more focused on using the arms and shoulders.
This aggressive movement will make a fish attack to defend their territory from trespassers (lure) or resemble badly injured fish.
Lures with a flat side will always provide an exciting darting action when styled with this twitch or jerking technique.
After doing a jerk or twitch, stop the lure, so it appears or sinks as if the fish is about to die.
Mr. Bombada Teru Devil’s Jerk
This ‘devil’s jerk’ method describes a jerking technique that is operated in a very aggressive style.
It was popularized by Mr. Teru (famous Japanese rod tester, Tulala) to hunt giant fish worldwide, especially in the Amazon river.
Watch the video below to see how effectively it traps fish.
Stop & Go Technique
This method is excellent for fish that are less active.
After making a cast, retrieve and stop. After that, it retrieved up again and stopped again. Repeat this process until the lure reaches the banks or boat.
It is essential to pay attention to the lure when it stops. Usually, the fish will attack during a long pause or when the lures start moving again.
In addition, you can make a slight twitch to provoke the fish to attack.
The importance of stopping (pause):
When the fish are active and feeding frenzy, this method may not be necessary.
However, there are times when we will have difficulty triggering a fish attack.
And one of the reasons is that we ‘don’t give enough time for the fish to attack the net.
But when the fish are usually inactive?
It may occur when the temperature is too hot or cold, the air pressure (barometric) is high, the effect of ocean tides, the phases of the moon, and so on.
In short, we never know when it will happen.
So, if the fish are not in the mood to catch up with the fast swimming lures, the solution is to give them time by pausing.
Stopping the retrieve will give the fish a chance to get closer in the attack radius.
This tactic will usually trigger an attack of a predator waiting for the lures to stop or slow down the swim.
Therefore, the suspending lures (neutral buoyancy) are very impressed with this technique.
Even so, it is also effective to use with floating or sinking lures.
This ripping-down method will make the lure dive deeper.
The objective of this method is to force the lure to get down quickly as possible to reach the bottom.
Often deep diving lures are suitable for this method. Lipless lures like the Rapala Rattlin are also effective.
I usually use this method with deep-dive lures like “Rapala Tail Dancer Deep” to go further down and tap the submerged structure to surprise the fish.
How is this method done?
The rod should be pressed/pushed down (from top to bottom) vertically several times after making a cast. Sometimes, I will push down until the tip of the rod will submerge below the surface.
A shorter rod (6 feet down) will make the job much easier, but it always depends on your situation.
The movement is done vertically too but from the bottom up.
After making a cast, lower the rod and make a retrieve. Then stop the retrieve and perform the pumping action (lift the lure from the bottom to the top).
Retrieve slack line every time after pumping.
The method is compatible with sinking lures, jigs, spoons, soft plastic, and vibration lure such as Rapala Rattlin.
Usually, the strike will happen at the start of the lifting or at the end where the lures stop.
Walking The Lure
Walking is a method of attracting fish out of a submerged structure by passing a lure over the structure to act like a ‘walk the dog’ (walking) above or a few inches below the water’s surface.
The best lure for this method is a floating minnow with a wide wobbling action like Zerek Barra-X.
How this method is executed:
Cast the lure to the target area → lift the rod as high as possible to the top → start a slow retrieve so that the lure swims sub-merge across the surface, causing water ripples.
The squeaking action above a submerged structure like this will always attract fish such as Arowanas or tomans to strike.
It can also be a good alternative if we don’t have a surface to use.
Conclusion, Use Your Wisdom To Work On Lures
There is no right or wrong way to work on the lures.
What’s important, every move we make the lures is capable of triggering a fish attack reaction.
If you are not sure what to do, you can follow the proven method above.
Good luck hunting your dream fish!
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